The Lakes That Change Colour
At 4.30 in the morning, Moni is still dark and quiet.
You get into the car. The road climbs. Thirty minutes later you’re standing at the crater rim of Kelimutu, watching the sky turn from black to purple to gold — and below you, three volcanic lakes sit in silence, each a different colour.
Turquoise. Chocolate brown. Deep green.
No photograph prepares you for it. No explanation fully accounts for it. The Lio people who have lived around this mountain for generations believe the lakes hold the souls of the departed — each lake for a different kind of life lived.
Standing there at sunrise, it’s not hard to understand why.
Three Lakes, Three Colours, One Mountain
Kelimutu National Park
The colours of Kelimutu’s lakes are not fixed. They shift — sometimes over years, sometimes overnight — driven by volcanic activity and mineral content beneath the surface. Travelers who visited a decade ago describe different colours entirely.
What you see on the morning you’re there belongs only to that morning.
That’s part of what makes it worth waking up at 4.30 for.
Bena Traditional Village, Bajawa Flores
Bena is one of the most well-preserved traditional villages in all of Flores. Stone-paved paths lead between rows of traditional houses, each facing the ceremonial ground at the centre. Megalithic altars stand in the open — ancient, moss-covered, still in use.
Standing here, you start to understand that Flores isn’t just one culture. It’s many — layered, distinct, and deeply rooted.
For Those Who Want to Go Further
Gurusina and Tololela sit off the more travelled path. Fewer visitors, more stillness. If your curiosity runs deep, Rio can take you there.
Inerie — The Volcano Above It All
Inerie rises to 2,245 metres above sea level, a near-perfect volcanic cone that dominates the horizon around Bajawa (Authentic Indonesia).
For those who want to climb it — the summit rewards with a view that stretches across the highlands, the coast, and the islands beyond. It asks for an early start and a steady pace. It gives back something harder to put into words.
For those who prefer to watch it — there are viewpoints where Inerie simply stands there, enormous and quiet, doing what volcanoes do. Either way, it belongs on the journey.
Malanage Hot Springs, Bajawa Flores
Below the volcano, naturally heated water rises from the earth into open-air pools surrounded by stone and forest.
The Malanage hot springs are not a resort. There are no facilities designed for comfort. Just warm water, volcanic earth, and the sound of the highlands around you.
After days of trekking and highland roads, it feels exactly right.
Overnight in Manulalu
Bajawa town is where most travelers stay. But Manulalu offers different vibe — a quieter place, closer to the land, further from the noise.
Waking up here, with Inerie on the horizon and the highland air still cool, is one of those small details that makes a journey feel different from a tour.
What Comes Next
From Bajawa, the road continues east. Toward the crater lakes of Kelimutu. Or north, down to the remote coastline of Riung and its seventeen islands.
Both are worth it. The journey between them is too.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the climb up Inerie difficult?
It’s a serious hike — around 4-5 hours to the summit and back, starting early morning. It requires good fitness and proper footwear. Rio will be honest with you about whether it’s right for your group.
What should I wear to the Ngada villages?
Modest dress is expected — covered shoulders and knees as a sign of respect. The villages are living communities, not open-air museums. Dress accordingly and you’ll be welcomed warmly.
Is there an entrance fee for the villages?
Yes, a small community contribution is expected at most traditional villages. This goes directly to the community.
How is Bajawa different from Ruteng and Wae Rebo?
Completely different. Ruteng is Manggarai — highlands, spider web rice fields, colonial-era town. Wae Rebo is about one remote village and the journey to reach it. Bajawa is Ngada — a different tribe, different ceremonies, different architecture, and a volcanic landscape that feels like another country entirely.
What are the hot springs like?
Malanage is natural and simple — warm volcanic pools in an open setting. Not a spa. But after days on highland roads, it’s exactly what you need.
When is the best time to visit?
Dry season, April to October. The climb up Inerie is not recommended in wet conditions.
How does Bajawa fit into the overland route?
Naturally — it sits between Ruteng and Kelimutu on the trans-Flores road. Most guests spend one night here before continuing east toward the crater lakes or north toward Riung.
The Ngada Have Been Here for Centuries.
You’ll pass through in a day or two.
Make it count.
Talk to a local →